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And yes it is on our doorstep! I mean it’s an easy 3-4 hour drive from Durban on really good roads and a “not too bad” 7 hour drive from Gauteng. For years Sodwana has attracted multitudes of divers to the coast, and for many, a first time diving experience on the safe and shallow 2 Mile Reef.
I’m sure too that most were not disappointed. For others it is just for a good break at the sea, good parties with lots of sun and late nights at places like the very well known “Jan Maak’n Jol”. And then there are the fishermen who also flock down here, attracted by the plethora of game fish or “pelagics” to be more precise, which abound in these waters.
From a young age I have always had this passion for all that has to do with the ocean and first visited Sodwana in January 1987. These are the days when some said “sex was safe and diving was dangerous”. That certainly has changed as scuba diving is today a leisure activity enjoyed by millions world-wide.
Anyway back to the topic at hand… We drove down in a 1600 Kombi. And for those who may remember the drive in those days there were only gravel roads from the N2 turnoff down to Mbazwana and from there to Sodwana was a sand track. It was January meaning rainy season and it was sweltering, muggy, hot and everything in between.
Boy it was hot! I was towing a 7 foot trailer loaded with camping gear and a rubber duck with outboard and recall using the handbrake as a sort of diff-lock which eventually got us through the sand without incident.
Today, 27 years later much has changed and yet when I visited again in December 2014 I also realized that not too much has changed so let’s put this all into context.
My first dives here were something I will never forget as this was exactly as it was in the magazines and movies. Clear tepid water, abundant coral in pristine condition, gazillions of fish and an exhilarating launch. In those days the dive boats were fiberglass cats with a stern console.
It was often a wet ride for all the divers sitting up front. And doing the backward roll into the water was like a freefall and getting back into the boat was certainly a much more technical and physical task than it is today. Semi rigid inflatables now take the divers out on a much more comfortable ride with outboards a lot more powerful and efficient making for safer launches through the surf zone.
The diving is still pristine and it’s good in today’s age to see the parks board officials on the beach in their khakis checking boats and maintaining an awareness of conservation and respect for the ocean, the beach and the way in which we enjoy it.
In fact it is probably more controlled now than it was years back in order to manage the impact on the reefs by a limited number of boat launches and divers. Vehicles are also not permitted to drive up and down the beaches any longer and may only use the designated bathing area in the bay to park and enjoy the sea and sun.
I recall driving the 70km stretch of beach from Sodwana to Cape Vidal when the tide was right as we were only permitted to drive within a 2 hour period of low tide. We would also drive down to Adlams Reef a few kilometers down the beach to enjoy the fishing and snorkeling inside its protected reef.
Many of those who visited in those days will also recall heading down to the carpark at 4pm to be first in line to get one of a limited daily offering of beach permits to drive the 20km stretch up the beach to Mabibi the following day or south to Adlams or Kingfisher Bay. And this was on a strictly 1st come 1st served basis, Mabibi must be one of the most idyllic snorkeling spots on our coastline.
We would sometimes end the day leaving the beach at Nine Mile beach and head through the dune forest to Lake Sibaya for sundowners. Incidentally Mabibi is still accessible from Mabibi campsite or Thonga Beach Lodge which are situated in the dune forest nearby and of course only accessible with a 4x4.
And while we are reminiscing let us not forget the long queues at the public phones or “tickieboxes” each evening to call home and let everyone know we were still alive, well and enjoying ourselves. No cellphones…aaaah life was good.
Sodwana hit the headlines when in 2004 divers discovered the prehistoric Coelacanth in Jesser Canyon. This brought a load of renewed interest to Sodwana and again proves its uniqueness in our eco system.
After a long absence of close on 5 years I visited again in December 2014 with my eldest son. He is now a dive instructor and had never dived “Sordies” as we fondly know it although he and his brother had been going out on the dive boats with me since the tender age of 5 years old.
Having been away for so long I wasn’t sure where to stay or who to dive with so had to put on my thinking cap and make some phone calls as there are a host of accommodation and diving options available at this diving mecca.
We decided to stay at Occi Lodge which turned out to be a very pleasant stay at an organized and well run establishment. The lodge is also conveniently located on the main road with secure parking making it easy for guests who do not have 4x4’s to enjoy the facility.
Accommodation is varied with typical bunk rooms consisting a double bunk, some shelves for packing and a fan. These rooms are complimented with well maintained, clean communal bathrooms. The other options are double rooms with aircon’s and en-suite bathrooms.
A communal serviced kitchen and living area with a plunge pool, braai area and bar/lounge complete with satellite television and a good music system is great for afternoon and evening relaxation in true diver fashion.
There are numerous dive charter operators and we decided to dive with Pisces Dive Charter. The essence of a good diving experience has and always will be friendly, hospitable and knowledgeable hosts, dive leaders and skippers and importantly good equipment.
Pisces rang all the bells and we enjoyed every moment. We dived all the reefs, swam with Dolphins behind the surf zone, enjoyed seeing turtles and all the ocean life “Sordies” has to offer. What an amazing experience.
When diving is over just spending time on the beach is incredible and we did some fishing, wandered through the tidal pools and snorkeled off the point at low tide. Of course diving always gives one quite an appetite and the beach shop was great and very convenient with an offering of tasty burgers, prego’s, chips and the like. Other eateries to be enjoyed are The Lighthouse as well as many other around the main “business area” of Sodwana.
With ever increasing living expenses and fuel costs more and more South Africans are looking for affordable beach holidays and destinations closer to home. Well, look no further!
Sodwana Bay is a great, affordable, accessible destination to spend quality time outdoors on the beach with friends and family and as I said at the outset close enough for us all to drive there and enjoy all it has to offer in true South African fashion.
